Gold, Sapphire and Diamond Cuff Bracelet

Item Description

A late 19th-century gold, diamond and sapphire cuff bangle, the oval sapphire measuring approximately 13 carats, with a GCS (Gemmological Certification Services) report, stating a natural sapphire from Sri Lanka (Ceylon) with no indications of heating, transparent, in a diamond starburst surround set with thirty-two old cut diamonds. The bangle tested as 18ct gold, weight 59 grams, 3.3cm wide.

Among the highlights of our forthcoming specialist Jewellery, Silver, Watches & Coins Sale is an extraordinary natural sapphire and diamond gold cuff bangle.

At its centre is a magnificent 13-carat (approx.) natural sapphire from Sri Lanka, displaying a rich blue hue and certified as showing no evidence of heat treatment, thus embodying the characteristics most prized in fine sapphires. Such stones seldom appear on the market, presenting a truly rare opportunity.

The lot will be offered on Wednesday, 19 August.

What Is A Natural Sapphire?

Every natural sapphire is a masterpiece millions of years in the making. The rarity of a natural sapphire begins long before it is ever unearthed. Forged deep within the Earth's crust, the crystals of the mineral corundum develop under immense heat and pressure, and trace elements such as iron and titanium impart the rich blue hues for which the finest sapphires are celebrated. Brought closer to the surface by tectonic activity over vast stretches of time, these rare gemstones are eventually discovered in only a handful of locations around the world.

This sapphire has been tested and found to be natural corundum, an extremely hard-wearing substance (second only to diamond). The trace impurities are what give the stone its colour. Red stones are classified as rubies, but sapphires can occur in all colours of the rainbow, with the most highly prized being that of deep blue. Its colour is the standard against which other blue gemstones, such as tanzanite and aquamarine, are graded.

Heated Vs Unheated 

Heat treatment has been used for centuries to enhance the colour and clarity of natural sapphires and is considered a standard practice within the jewellery industry. The treatment is permanent and allows many sapphires to reach their full visual potential. Unheated sapphires, by contrast, have not undergone any thermal enhancement, meaning their colour and clarity are entirely natural. They display the beauty bestowed upon them entirely by nature. Fine unheated sapphires are exceptionally scarce, as only a small proportion of crystals possess the desirable characteristics required without treatment. Consequently, they are among the most prized and valuable sapphires on the market.

A GCS report confirms that the sapphire in this bracelet shows no evidence of heat treatment. Therefore, its rich blue colour and highly desirable transparency are completely natural; coupled with its size, this sapphire is an exceptional specimen.

The Significance Of Ceylon Sapphires

Fine sapphires are found in only a limited number of locations around the world, including Sri Lanka (Ceylon), Myanmar, Madagascar, Kashmir, Australia and Thailand. Among these, Sri Lanka has long been regarded as one of the most important and prestigious sources, with a history of sapphire mining dating back more than 2,000 years. 

Often referred to as the "Gem Island", Sri Lanka is one of the world's oldest and most prolific sources of sapphires. The island's geology has created ideal conditions for the formation and preservation of gem-quality corundum, with sapphires washed from ancient metamorphic rocks into riverbeds and alluvial deposits over millions of years. 

The world's largest sapphire was found here in 2015, at 1404.49 carats, the so-called Star of Adam, named for its 6-pointed natural star pattern and location (Adam's Peak), was estimated at over $100 million at the time it was found.

Ceylon sapphires are especially admired for their transparency and vivid blue hues, qualities that have made them highly valuable. The confirmation of Sri Lankan origin, therefore, adds another important dimension to the exceptional gemstone on offer in this auction.

Symbolism

Over the course of history, from ancient times to the modern day, the sapphire has been associated with wisdom, truth, loyalty, protection, nobility, and more. We can see this reflected in their use, for example, engagement rings; the King, as Prince Charles, gave Princess Diana a stunning blue sapphire engagement ring, which was then, in turn, given to Kate Middleton (Catherine, Princess of Wales) by Prince William, a symbol of love and loyalty. In religion, sapphires worn in jewellery by high-ranking clergy in the Catholic and Orthodox churches in the Middle Ages and still to this day, were a symbol of divine protection and purity. Going back further to ancient times, sapphires were worn and kept as amulets offering divine protection in Ancient Greece and Rome. The Persians believed the earth was balanced on top of a giant sapphire, and the sky was the reflection of the vivid blue; they were therefore highly prized, becoming a valuable commodity in trade. This is just a snippet of the sapphire's significance over time, but it adds context to the stone and further layers to its story.

The Setting

Another interesting attribute of this lot is the bracelet itself; despite hailing from the late 19th-century, the bold statement 18ct gold cuff bracelet possesses a surprisingly timeless aesthetic. It is highly likely that the bracelet was made specifically to incorporate the stones and wasn't a later alteration, and also that it was likely made in Sri Lanka, where the sapphire was mined. This added potential provenance and age adds further interest to an already unique lot. 

GCS Certification Summary

Species: Natural corundum

Variety: Natural sapphire

Origin: Sri Lanka (Ceylon)

Measurements: 13.9mm x 11.5mm x 9.4mm approx.

Weight: 13ct approx.

Cut: Oval

Transparency: Transparent

Colour: Blue

Comment: No indication of heating

Considering Selling Your Jewellery?

Here at RWB Auctions, we treat every item brought into us with the utmost care and attention, offering free valuations with no pressure to sell. We have specialists in jewellery valuations as well as a gemologist, meaning you can be confident that you will achieve the best price at auction. We have buyers from around the world and ensure your items receive maximum exposure on two global platforms and through other marketing campaigns. We are open for valuations every Monday and Tuesday and hold regular valuation days across the south of the country. Visit or contact us to start your journey today.